Ye Restfull Dana

Aid Milan Saeed David!! 29th (David's birthday)
DANA
We have now been in Dana for 3 restfull sleeps! Much longer than intended.  Our hotel here
is run by Soloman, with the help of Moonira (a philipino lady) who calls him Baba (father),
and understandably as he is a very father figure.  All the days here have mellowed into
one! So I'll talk in a muddled order.  The few families who live in Dana really care about
their home, and moreover: nature.  The prayers, also are my favourites here.  The mountains surrounding Dana were split deeply
by an earthquake many years ago (the same one which destroyed many of the castles
I've visited) and all around we have found fossils from when the country was ocean.
  Yesterday I met AtAllah at Mohammed's store when we sat down to eat some mish-mish (apricots).
  By bad arabic gets me into funny situations.  He showed me his collection of ancient
coins found in the old, ruined village of Dana.  My interest inspired him to give me a tour
and together we went stumbling through the rocky ruins, rummaging for broken tiles, fossils,
pretty stones, bones etc.  Our hands were cupped full of pretty things after a little while.
  I still feel bad, but the beautiful man ended up giving me three coins.  Two ancient
palestinian coins which we hooked onto my necklace as well as an anicent Romainian coin
which is hand pressed!! 'Remember' was his favourite english word and I shall not forget.
  Another young man invited us to his orchid where we sipped zartar tea (!!!) amongst the donkeys.
  After the first night of arabic card games and Mt Nebo wine with locals, David and I helped cook dinner.
  I wanted to learn the secret of their amazing cooking and oh gosh did I discover:
Everything (even before it's mixed in with rice or anything) is deep fried.
  A mahloube like dish involved a large pot.  At it's base sits a layer of tomato,
Which we layered with rice (mixed with chick peas and peas and noodle bits) and deep
fried vegies.  Plus spices and tomato puree. placed upside down like a rice cake!! Delicious.
   Chicken, beans, tabouleh, bread: yum.
  We stayed a third night here as buses don't run on fridays and so we couldnt get to Petra.
No Problem! Said Solomon - we would party here today for David's birthday. Inshallah. We'd cook
Mansaf (Beduin dish!), dance, play music, and party.
  So Today David woke up to my singing happy birthday in arabic.  I've told everyone we've
met here so far to come and celebrate with us together tonight, and David hates me for it.
  We set off after breakie towards the springs but got distracted by a group of young men
on a picnic, with whom we played magical games beneath a huge tree by a spring.  Since leaving Madaba,
I've met more actual "jordinians" who are from beduin families.  Humungous beduin families with multiple wives
each with many (around ten) children.  And although they are quite poor, they are so generous and rich in heart you
easily forget.  This is a generalisation, there are many beduin tribes (each with varying dialects and expectations)
and I couldn't have experienced all of em.
  The young men have been raised to be responsible regarding morals, family, respect, and yet they still know how to have fun.
  They came back later in the evening to celebrate David's birthday, and promised to speed home one handed after
I warned them to be carful. Jordanians all have a great sense of humour.
  Mansaf that night: cook watered yogurt in a pot on the stove.  Cook rice (with cumin butter and salt). Cook chicken (or
better: lamb).  Put rice then chicken then yoghurt. Simply delicious.
  It was devastating to leave the next morning.  I promised Moonira and Solouman I would go back Moonira insisted
on numerous photos together, under this tree and that, amidst discussing how we'd pay (as we didnt have enough cash
between the four of us and Dana has no bank).  Waving from the car window I felt really loved.  Lovely man Brahim was
taking us to Petra (Wadi Musa).