Wednesday 29 August 2012

Jerusalem - a microcosm of the Country



Woah!  Life is so wonderful.

  Meeting G was refreshing.  Like diving headfirst into the cool colours of the ocean,
)after I'd become so sticky from my former, conservative environments. (with my family
  First we went off into Jerusalem's old city.
  Im embarrassed, I was like a sneaky little hawk, vaguely avoiding all her questions while
. absorbing every last word as they poured out to me.
  I couldn't help but to love her more and more with each moment (and thus ofcoarse
hate myself more and more, as I was being so rude by doubting her authenticity).

G
 so G is a Jerusalemite.  She does not call herself
israeli or Jewish but Hebrew, and from Al Quds.  She fully
supports Palestine but like the new generation had no choice as
to where she was born and where her family live.
  Her family is Jewish and moved to Palestine from America and
UK around 48 purely believing that God was finally on their side,
and was helping their people and their family at last.
  G was oblivious to the Palestinian perspective until she was
made to join the army, as all are, and though she only did
social services she discovered the true situation and became
an active supporter of Palestine.  One state.

  G first took me through the Jewish streets, then to the wailing wall, before we
crossed the wall to Palestinian villages.  I felt as though we stood on the wall itself,
and could peer onto both peoples with a balanced view.  I call these 'Jewish streets'
because they are apart of the occupied territories where mainly only Jewish people roam.
  There are arabs who still own stalls along the markets path.  Many wear traditional
Jewish accessories as to avoid racism, otherwise, they have the israeli flag.
  We arrive at the wailing wall and sneak into the Synagogue (Which normally one cannot
enter without some sort of special permission ??) through the escavated caves beneath the
ground.
  We spy on caves leading to more escavation, where Israel is turning Jerusalem upside-down
(from Occupied soil to Palestinian soil - meaning beneath Palestinian's houses wihtout
their consent).  They do this in search of proof that Jerusalem belongs to the Jews.
  The sadness within that speaks for itself.


  So, a large portion of Jerusalem is still "legally" (according to Oslo) a part of
the Palestinian territories. With just a few corners and sneaky tourist doors, we have
stepped through the wardrobe and are standing in poor streets, filled with Palestinian
people with (again) their own, special passport.  It is easier for non-palestinian inhabitants
of Jerusalem to avoid these streets than it is for them to find them, so many Israelis are,
not so much oblivious, but alien to the Palestinian people.  Frankly, its the same vice versa.
  The people are alien to one another.
  In a popular city square a week ago, a Palestinian was beat up almost to death by a group
of israelis.
  Though the Israelis are afraid of Palestinians.  And truly.  Its been almost 6 years since
any suicide attack has happened, but propaganda has clouded any sense of humanity and caused
a general agreement that Palestinians - sorry - that Arabs are dangerous.  That muslims
are dangerous.  That the world is against the Jews and they only have one another to trust.
Or something.

  So the city of David was made in the 90s right atop Silwan village.  Its about 1 6th of Jerusalem,
huge, and full of inhabitants...though who are now compressed into a smaller area again.
  Its just one of the many palestinian villages which were scattered around Jerusalem, and
just one which still struggles for peace.
  M works at the local centre, set up by the villiage, which helps the children deal with
what's going on (with the help of volunteers) as well as teaching foreigners and Israelis
the bloody truth about the City of David.
  The local centre is illigal: See, even for Palestinians here it is illegal to build.
  The village as seen much bloodshed; but the present struggle involves being unable
to build, renovate or repair houses (and babies are on the way!).  The streets get no
Government attention (are smelly with rubbish), and the children are frustrated as many
have been sent to Jail, or members of their family have, and their identity is denied.

  The Passport of Jerusalem Palestinians is a whole new colour.  Like those within
the West Bank, they too need to pay to apply to have permission to leave the country.
  Additionally, they can't visit the West Bank.


  So a bunch of couch surfers were keen to meet G, so we were to meet with them at
a bar in Jerusalem.  The only bar here which, even since the intifada, allows Palestinians
to enter! No security (which apparently could only be for Palestinians...what else?)!
  How radical.  So we invited M (from Silwan) and also a man whos setting up a jewish/arabic
choir from the US, and also a few friends of G's from school (ahh! At last I found some
hippy styled conversations!), a Jewish Morroccan on an art project, and a bunch of internationals
who're payed to study science here.  Altogether we covered 5 or 6 continents and the outer
seating area of the bar. Everyone was friendly, excited to be strangers, keen to learn, etc
  Though the seemed ignorance most of them held concerning the reality of the country
Shocked me.  I almost felt unable to connect.
  These feelings themselves alienated me, I realized, as G's tolerance and acceptance
gathered the whole circle into joining a 'field trip' (!) into the scary and mysterious
'West Bank'where they could learn about the situation.
  Like most of the inhabitants of Jerusalem, a bunch of these people knew of Palestinians
to be 'terrorists' who did this and that on that street and that building.  Even the soldiers
are under the illusion that Palestinians want to hurt them.
  Its a generalization, but various aspects to the country as well as the media set the
inhabitants up into fear of Palestinians.

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